The Hermès Fall 2018 menswear collection wasn't just a presentation of clothes; it was a carefully orchestrated narrative, a testament to the house's enduring commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and a distinctly modern interpretation of classic menswear. This season, creative director Véronique Nichanian eschewed overt flamboyance, opting instead for a subtle elegance that spoke volumes through refined tailoring, luxurious materials, and a considered color palette. The collection resonated with a quiet confidence, a sophisticated masculinity that felt both timeless and undeniably contemporary. Analyzing the runway looks, beauty choices, models, and subsequent reviews reveals a collection that successfully navigated the fine line between tradition and innovation.
Runway Looks: A Tapestry of Texture and Tone
The Hermès Fall 2018 runway was a study in contrasts, seamlessly blending rugged textures with impeccable tailoring. The collection's dominant aesthetic was one of understated luxury, achieved through the strategic use of rich fabrics and impeccable construction. Nichanian's mastery of silhouette was evident in the collection's diverse range of outerwear, from impeccably tailored overcoats in cashmere and wool to more relaxed, yet equally sophisticated, bomber jackets and blousons. The color palette was predominantly muted, favoring earthy tones like deep browns, olives, and greys, punctuated by occasional pops of brighter colors like burgundy and navy.
One recurring theme was the exploration of layering. Lightweight knits were layered over crisp shirts, which were then layered under heavier outerwear, creating a sense of depth and dimension. This layering wasn't simply about warmth; it was about building a carefully considered aesthetic, where each piece complemented and enhanced the others. The use of different textures – the softness of cashmere against the crispness of cotton, the smoothness of leather against the roughness of tweed – added another layer of complexity to the overall effect.
The collection also showcased Hermès's mastery of leather, a material synonymous with the brand. Leather jackets, trousers, and even accessories were prominent features, demonstrating the versatility and enduring appeal of this classic material. The leather wasn't simply used as a statement piece; it was integrated seamlessly into the overall aesthetic, enhancing the collection's sophisticated and refined feel. The tailoring of the leather garments was particularly noteworthy, showcasing the brand's commitment to precision and excellence.
While the collection largely focused on traditional menswear silhouettes, there were subtle hints of modernity. Relaxed-fit trousers offered a contemporary counterpoint to the more structured jackets, while the inclusion of bomber jackets and blousons added a touch of casual cool. This balance between classic and contemporary was a key element of the collection's success, appealing to a broad spectrum of men while remaining true to the Hermès brand identity.
Beauty and Models: Understated Elegance and Authentic Masculinity
The beauty choices for the Hermès Fall 2018 show were equally understated and elegant, mirroring the collection's overall aesthetic. The models' hair was styled in a natural, slightly tousled manner, emphasizing a sense of effortless cool. Makeup was minimal, focusing on enhancing natural features rather than creating a dramatic look. This understated approach allowed the focus to remain on the clothes, showcasing the quality of the tailoring and the richness of the fabrics.
The casting of models further reinforced the collection's theme of authentic masculinity. The models were diverse in terms of ethnicity and physique, reflecting a broader representation of men. This move away from a homogenized ideal of masculinity was a welcome departure from traditional fashion shows, contributing to the collection's overall sense of inclusivity and modernity. The models' natural demeanor and confident gait further enhanced the collection's message of understated elegance and quiet sophistication.
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